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Basic Dove Egg Info:
Dove eggs are larger
than those of the average bird. They are a glossy white about 2/3
the size of a golf ball. Sometimes it is difficult to determine
which is the small end of the egg and which is the large end. There are
usually 2 in each clutch. Some may have only 1. The second egg is laid
anywhere from 27 to 40 hours apart. I have seen and read both. It
depends on the dove.
Rumor is that each
clutch has one male and one female but I have no data to support that
rumor and it is likely more fiction than fact.
The egg should lay
undisturbed for 12 hours before beginning incubation. Although the
reason was not given, I suspect that it allows the egg shell time to
harden and complete calcification. As long as an egg is not allowed to
freeze or become too warm 72+, the eggs can be kept for days and weeks
before starting incubation. Although some doves will start sitting
after the first egg is laid, older doves wait until the second egg is
laid to start sitting so they will hatch at the same time. Don't get
excited if the dove is not sitting on the egg or is standing over the
egg not getting it warm. They will sit on it when they are ready.
The incubation will take
about 15 days for the eggs to fully hatch.
Dove eggs do not have a
waterproof membrane like chicken eggs so it is important not to get a
dove egg wet. Anything you put on the egg will penetrate the shell and
affect the baby inside. It is important to wash your hands with an
antibacterial soap before handling a fertile egg. Despite what others
may have said, do not write on or stick anything on a dove egg. Do not
run it under water. Do not allow the egg to become chilled once
incubation has begun. If a dove is sitting on the egg, take care not to
disturb them where they might break the fragile egg. The slightest thing will damage the shell.
Egg
defects:
Fragility - Dove eggs are extremely
fragile and will chip or crack very easily. Once the egg is
chipped or cracked, the egg will fail. At least I have tried to rescue
such eggs without any luck. The developing vessels stop when reaching
the defect and will die.
Coloring - Sometimes the shell of a
dove egg has wide, pale rings which is either caused by a lack of
vitamins or minerals such as calcium or a defect in the reproductive
structures. I will update this information as soon as I have a
definitive answer. Either way, the egg is not harmed and will function
as it would normally.
Shell Hardness - If an egg is laid with a
soft rubbery and transparent shell, it will soon dehydrate and collapse.
This problem is usually caused by lack of calcium or aborting the egg
before it has completed its cycle. Be sure that the female has ample
access to hi-calcium grit and additional vitamins if necessary. Do not
overdose dove on too much vitamins which would cause worse problems.
Keeping the dove from stress will also help prevent spontaneous abortion
of the egg.
Missing shell - If you see evidence of a
dove bearing an egg without a shell, medical attention will be needed.
If you see the dove straining to defecate egg white and egg yolk or if
you see evidence of this on the bottom of the cage, either the dove had
insufficient calcium levels in the blood which can be tested by an avian
vet or part or all of the shell may still be inside the dove if it is
not in the cage. Both yolk or shell can cause serious infections,
complications and death if not attended to immediately. She will need to
be examined for any shell that may remain inside her and have the
particles removed. She will also need to be thoroughly irrigated inside
her vent to rinse out any remaining yolk or white. It will take the
skill of an avian vet to prevent her from going into shock while
performing these procedures. Additionally, she will need an
injection of an antibiotic to prevent infection and possibly follow up
medication. It is important that she received medical attention quickly.
Waiting one day is too long. The sooner the better.
Egg Laying Problems:
Egg Binding - Is a life threatening
situation that needs immediate medical attention. When a dove has been
straining for more than an hour, she may be egg bound. Try raising the
humidity and temperature for her. KY Jelly may help as well. Make
sure she has access to fresh hi-calcium grit on a constant basis. If it
is more than 6 months old, get rid of it and buy new grit.
Unless you know what you
are doing, do not try to express the egg. If you break the egg inside,
she could die from complications and infection. Do not wait more than 8
hours to get her to an avian vet. Sooner if she has been straining or is
bleeding.
Egg breaking - If the eggs are being
broken because the female is laying them from the perch and allowing
them to drop to the bottom of the cage, try removing the perch when she
is getting close to laying her eggs. The vent will be slightly bulged
when she is ready to lay. You should be able to feel the shape of the
egg but do not press on the area or the egg might break. If
needed, you can place the food dishes down low and remove anything she
can stand on above the bottom of the cage. Or you can put her in a small
cage for a few hours until she lays.
If the male is disturbing
her from the nest, you can try to separate them for a few hours, but be
sure that she is ready to lay or you may be preventing the egg from
being fertilized.
If the eggs are being
broken in the nest, it is probably missing the soft layer. Try lining
the nest with straw, cotton balls, or other soft nest material. Be sure
that the nest is recessed so that the eggs do not roll out. Remove any
excess sticks or materials that may damage the eggs.
Also, be sure not to
disturb the female too much when she is bearing an egg. You may damage
the egg or cause a spontaneous abortion of the egg. Be certain she has
access to fresh hi-calcium grit.
If the doves are breaking
the eggs by being too rough, you can obtain plastic eggs (quail eggs
will do) from a local hobby store such as Hobby Lobby, Michaels or perhaps a Walmart. The doves don't
mind if the eggs are speckled or plain and sometimes will accept a
smaller egg. If you have an incubator then exchange the real eggs for
plastic and the doves will be just as happy. If the plastic egg falls
out of the nest, just put it back in. The doves wont care. By having the
doves continue to sit on the nest with the plastic eggs, you will be
able to replace the plastic eggs with the hatching babies after
incubation is complete and the doves will hopefully raise the hatchlings
as they normally would.
Abnormal Laying patterns:
If the dove is not laying
consistently, she is probably not getting enough calcium and vitamins.
Supplements are available. She may also be ill or have an infection. A
check up at the vet may be in order. They can do blood tests, throat and
stool cultures. Many things can affect a dove and her production of
eggs.
Candling:
It is much easier to
candle an egg than most would lead you to believe. You don't need a
special device. You don't need to be an expert. When the egg has been
incubated for 5 days, use a strong flashlight with good batteries,
and shine the light from behind the egg. On the other side, you will see
the veins appearing inside the egg shell. A small blob may be missed by
the untrained eye, but if you see the veins, the egg is fertile. In a
week, you will not be able to see through the egg because the baby will
block the light.
Incubation:
Natural Incubation - The natural parents are
the best way to incubate the eggs. The parents will turn the egg and
maintain the correct temperature and humidity. However, not all parents
are good parents. It is a good idea to have an incubator available just
in case. Sometimes one or both parents will not properly sit on the egg.
If the egg becomes chilled, it will die. If the humidity is incorrect it
could die. If you have to use an incubator, try to substitute plastic
eggs for the real eggs in the hope that the parents will accept and feed
the babies when they hatch.
Sometimes, another dove
might be willing to foster the egg. They might surprise you. I have had
a male in a same sex couple rear plastic eggs. Usually the males are
more willing to foster an egg that is not their own. Even more so when
it has been a while since he has had a nest of his own.
Artificial Incubation - The best incubator I
have found is made by Lyons. It has a clear dome, a temperature control
and regulator, a humidification system and an automatic egg turner which
is very important. The eggs must be turned no less than once every 4
hours. If the babies are not turned properly, they will become deformed.
Toes may become adhered and circulation to parts of the body may become
impaired. It is difficult to maintain the egg turning schedule manually
when you are sleeping or working so an auto turner is very important.
The temperature will need to be maintained at a constant 101 degrees Fahrenheit
and the humidity at 51%. The auto turner will turn the eggs once each
hour. The only thing you will need to do for the next two weeks is keep
the water bottle full with distilled water and check the temperature and
humidity. Although you can get cheap incubators for around $15, this
incubator is what you need if you are serious about saving the babies.
It costs around $350 with everything.
You will need to decide
how you want to handle the eggs after they have hatched. The incubator
is too warm if you have other eggs in it and the air circulation system
is too drying on the baby's skin. And will you be feeding the baby or
will the parents feed the baby?
Hatching:
If all goes well, the eggs
will start to pip by day 14. Do not help the baby hatch the egg or you
will tear the membrane and cause it to bleed to death. Once the baby
pips an air hole in the eggshell, it takes about 24 additional
hours for the baby to draw all of the contents of the yolk sack into its
abdomen and for the egg membrane to dry and seal the blood vessel
endings. When the baby hatches and the membrane is bloodless and flaky
dry, then it is ok to take away the shell pieces. The yolk sack should
be gone from the shell and dried and detached where it once was attached
to the baby and shell. The baby can survive 24 to 48 hours on the yolk
sack contents it absorbed during the hatching process.
Human impatience is the #1
biggest killer of babies hatched in captivity.
Eggless
Parents:
Eggless parents can
easily be satisfied with plastic egg substitutes which can be purchased
at a hobby store. For just a few pennies, the doves are delighted with
their new plastic eggs. They will even accept speckled eggs or eggs that
are smaller than normal. This will give them good practice at becoming
reliable sitters and good foster parents for abandoned eggs or taking
over in an emergency.
Breeder
feeds:
Breeder feeds can be
purchased inexpensively at a local farm feed store or ordered. Purina
makes several mixes for doves and pigeons. In a pinch, hen laying mash
can be substituted or mixed with wild dove seed. |